Breathe
By Nitza Masri
If there is something that is always present at breakfast, in the afternoon coffee or in a cup of frothy hot chocolate, it is bread. And no wonder: bread is part of our Mexican essence. These days, words like "artisan" or "sourdough" sound like novelties in the bakery world, but in reality, we are just returning to our roots!
Since the Spaniards brought wheat to Mexico in the 16th century, bread became a staple on our tables. According to the National Chamber of the Baking Industry (CANAINPA), the baking industry in Mexico formally began in 1524, when the Spaniards began to establish ovens to make European-style bread. But here we did it our way: soft, white bread gained ground and, little by little, every corner of Mexico adopted recipes and styles that combined the flavor of wheat with local ingredients.
Not only did bread adapt; we also made it part of our lives. By the 19th century, there were famous bakeries in Mexico City, and even indigenous bakers produced their own versions in stone ovens, selling them in markets.
In the 20th century, the ways of making bread changed: industrialization arrived, and white bread became ubiquitous in stores and supermarkets. By 1950, an industrialist named Antonio Ordóñez Ríos revolutionized bakeries by introducing self-service, a model in which you choose your bread on a tray. The idea seemed ideal, and soon everyone wanted to select their loaf ready to go.
However, there was something about the artisanal process that still called to us. The flavors, the textures, the authenticity that only time and the natural fermentation of the sourdough, which is a living ferment, made only with flour and water, but requires patience. This bread is not made in minutes; it is left to rise slowly, allowing the natural bacteria and yeasts to work. That time is the key to its flavor, that subtle acidity and the characteristic crumb, as well as being much more digestive, something we value today more than ever.
Despite the ease of industrial pastries, sourdough bread has something the other doesn't: it connects us to our roots. Every bite of a sourdough loaf feels more real, more authentic, as if we were eating a piece of history. It's not a fad, but a return to what was always good.
Today, Mexicans consume an average of 33.5 kilos of bread per year; of this consumption, between 70% and 75% is white bread. However, there is a new appreciation for artisanal bread, slow-fermented bread, which not only tastes better, but also feels better.
In our bakery, in Julieta. We maintain that tradition. We work each dough calmly, letting time and natural fermentation work their magic. The result is a bread that reminds us of the past and gives us the satisfaction of something well done. Not only does it have a crispy crust and complex flavor, but it is also healthier, and people recognize it: it tastes like the real thing, like what our grandmothers would make if they had the time.
Deep down, this type of bread has always been more than just flour and water: it is history, tradition and a piece of our culture that we cannot leave aside. In the end, returning to artisan bread, to sourdough bread, is like returning home.
*Businesswoman in the bakery industry.
The opinions expressed are the responsibility of the authors and are absolutely independent of the position and editorial line of the company. Opinion 51.
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